ASI - Sierra Climbing Courses - Alpine Mountaineering Camp

Technical Difficulty (Class):

Mountain Skill Rating:

Physical Condition:

Client/Guide Ratio: 4:1

Includes:
Group camping equipment, 3 group dinners, ice axe, crampons, harness and helmet.

Operating under Special Use Permit, Inyo National Forest.

Advanced Alpine Mountaineering Camp 4 Day
The most thorough mountaineering short course anywhere!

The Palisade Range is regarded as the most "alpine" group of peaks in the High Sierra. Its 9 mile crest of high peaks contain more points over 14,000' than any other section of the Sierra Crest. It houses several glaciers and permenant snowfields, including the Palisade Glacier, the largets in the Sierra.

This 4-day camp visits the most stunning and worthy routes, including Mt. Sill via the Swiss Arête and North Palisade by the U-Notch Couloir. They will invovle high altitude climbing, over 14,000' glacier travel, steep snow/ice and solid class 5 rock climbing and rappelling. They are long days, require previous skills and excellent physical condition.

Cost: $995

Dates:

Aug 22-25, 2011 (Mon-Thu)

Itinerary
Day 1 - High camp
After meeting at the hiker's parking lot at Glacier Lodge at Big Pine Creek (7,800'') at 7:00am, we will begin hiking about 5 miles to where we leave the trail at Third Lake (10,250'). We usually ascend the sometimes snow-filled Galey Gully beneath the spectacular escaprments below Temple Crag and Mt. Galey to our high camp on the moraine above the Palisade Glacier (12,150').

Day 2 - Mt. Sill, Swiss Arête
With an early morning start, we will cross the Palisade Glacier and ascend to Glacier Notch (13,100'). After crossing the L-shaped couloir, we will access the start of the Swiss Arête. About 7 pitches and some easier climbing lead to the summit of Mt. Sill with some of the most spectacular views of this rugged portion of the Sierra.

The descent brings us down the northwest ridge to a notch above the L-shaped couloir. Class 3 ledges and one rappel brings us to the top of the couloir, the descent to Glacier Notch and then back to camp.

Day 3 - North Palisade, U-Notch Couloir
Another early start and ascent of the Palisade Glacier brings us to the bergschrund at the base of the U-Notch Couloir. After passing the somewhat tricky crevasse of the bergschrund, we climb about 10 pitches of 40° snow/ice to the top of the U-Notch. From there, we choose the original Norman Clyde route (class 4) or the more direct corner system (5.6), then scramble to the summit (class 4 pitches) of one of the mightiest peaks of the Sierra.

Day 4 - Descent
After sleeping in a bit, we'll make the descent back to the trailhead at Glacier Lodge, more or less the same way we approached.

Preparation:
Routine cardiovascular conditioning with workouts lasting 60 min (4-5 times per week). Pre-climb acclimatization recommended to include hiking and sleeping at 8,000' or higher 1 or 2 days before the climb.

Prerequisites:

Previous hiking to above 12,000'
Experience rock climbing 5.7 with a top rope
Experience with ice axe, crampons on belayed climbing on slopes at least 35°
Familiar with modern, light-weight equipment, selection and packing technique
Excellent physical condition prepared for long, strenuous days up to 14,000'

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