Technical Difficulty (Class):
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Prerequisite Skills:
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Physical Condition:
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Client/Guide Ratio: 2:1

Guides climbing and safety gear, climbing helmet (reservation required).

Does not include:
Personal items on gear list.

Operating on a non-discriminating basis under Special Use Permit, Inyo National Forest.

Tioga Pass

Third Pillar III 5.10b, Dana Plateau (12,466')    1 Day

The Third Pillar is one of the finest, most exhillarating routes of its grade in the High Sierra. It combines powerful crack climbing, delicate face climbing and a final challenging mantel right to the summit of the peak.

$345 ea/2 people
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The Approach:
From the west end of Tioga Lake, we follow the climber's route up Glacier Canyon to the large scree slope that leads to the notch, north of the high point of Dana Plateau. From here, the route descends the class 3-4 ridge north of the pillar. At the base of the pillar we cross the snow gulley, then traverse onto a ledge to the base of the route (3 hrs).

The Climb:
This excellent high country rock route follows 5 exciting pitches. None are easier than 5.8 and four are 5.9 or harder. This route uses a variety of crack climbing techniques from thin fingers, hand, fist, flared squeeze and stemming technique. Each pitch uses a combination of techniques, making this a super interesting and enjoyable route. The final pitch ends with superb straight-in jamming to a fabulous mantel right to the summit (about 5 hrs).

The Descent:
From the summit on the edge of Dana Plateau, we retrace our steps back down Glacier Canyon as we approached the climb.

Cardiovascular conditioning: prepare with at least 4-5, 60 min+ aerobic workouts per week including hill running, biking, or hard-hill hiking with a pack and ski poles. Pre-climb acclimatization recommended to include hiking and sleeping at 8,000-10,000' at least 1 day before the climb.

  • Previous expereince following 5.10
  • Multi-pitch climbing experience
  • Mountain hiking off-trail
  • Excellent physical condition (see physical condition description)

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