Technical Difficulty (Class):
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Prerequisite Skills:
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Physical Condition:
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Client/Guide Ratio: 2:1

Guides climbing and safety gear, climbing helmet (reservation required).

Does not include:
Personal items on gear list.

Operating on a non-discriminating basis under Special Use Permit, Inyo National Forest.

Tioga Pass

North Peak, North Couloirs II class 5 ice     1 Day

The north face of North Peak has a small pocket glacier and has 3 snow/ice couloirs ascending the rock face. Our favorite is the left couloir that presents sustained 50° ice climbing later in the season.

$315 ea/2 people
Plus Guide Transportation arrangement

Sep 17, 2017   (Sun)
Oct 8, 2017   (Sun)

The Approach:
From Saddlebag Lake, we either hike around the westshore or take the boat taxi (when available) across to the north end of the lake. From here, we follow the relatively short approach trail, slabs and ledges to the base of our couloir of choice.

The Climb:
Once past the bergschrund, usually passed on the right, the climbing remains interesting with its relatively sustained 50° snow/ice slope for about 6 rope lengths. Belays are often from rock and ice along the way. From the top of the left couloir, the summit is optional.

The Descent:
From the top of the couloir or the summit, it's a fairly quick descent back to the beautiful alpine lakes above Saddlebag Lake. We use the boat taxi or the walk around the westshore back to the trailhead.

Cardiovascular conditioning: prepare with at least 3-4, 40 min+ aerobic workouts per week including hill running, biking, or hard-hill hiking with a pack and ski poles. Strength training for upper body including pullups and practice climbing. Pre-climb acclimatization recommended to include hiking and sleeping at 8,000'-10,000' or higher at least 1 day before the climb.

  • Previous mountain hiking experience (5 miles+)
  • Basic snow and ice climbing experience including belayed pitches

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