Technical Difficulty (Class):
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Prerequisite Skills:
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Physical Condition:
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Client/Guide Ratio: 2:1

Guides climbing and safety gear, climbing helmet (reservation required). Guide's transportation expense for pre-scheduled climbs.

Does not include:
Personal items on gear list. Boat taxi $10 roundtrip (when available).

Operating on a non-discriminating basis under Special Use Permit, Inyo National Forest.

Tioga Pass

North Peak (12,242'), Northwest Ridge II 5.3     1 Day

Another forgotten classic that provides interesting, quality climbing and a great day in the mountains. The route is similar in character to the North Ridge of Mt. Conness but the technical climbing is a bit shorter and easier in a marvelous setting with spectacular views.

Skills covered include:
  • Off trail travel
  • Short rope and short pitch roped travel
  • Braced and anchored belays

$315 ea/2 people
July 10, 2017   (Mon)
July 23, 2017   (Sun) 1 spot
Sep 5, 2017   (Tue)

The Approach:
From Saddlebag Lake (10,087'), we either hike around the westshore or take the boat taxi (when available) across to the north end of the lake. From here, we are instantly in an amazing high sierra setting as we begin the beautiful walk along spectacular alpine lakes to McCabe Pass (11,600') and the start of the climbing along the northwest ridge (2 1/2 hrs).

The Climb:
We follow the asthetic line of the Northwest Ridge through three distinct gaps until the ridge steepens for the last few hundred feet to the summit plateau. This is easily followed to the summit. Most of the climbing is quick along pleasant class 3 and 4 with a few short steep steps of easy class 5 (4 hrs.)

The Descent:
From the summit, we descend easy scree down the south face/slope to intersect the climber's path along the Conness Lake back to Saddlebag Lake. This forms a complete loop-trip for the day, including a complete traverse of North Peak.

Cardiovascular conditioning: prepare with at least 3-4, 40 min+ aerobic workouts per week including hill running, biking, or hard-hill hiking with a pack and ski poles. Strength training for upper body including pullups and practice climbing. Pre-climb acclimatization recommended to include hiking and sleeping at 8,000' or higher 1 or 2 days before the climb.

  • Previous mountain hiking experience (5 miles+)
  • Basic rock climbing experience including belay climbing up to 5.5

Questions about this climb?

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"Thank you for another amazing day in the mountains. Logan Talbott far exceeded my expectations. We had a great climb and an incredible day. You guys are the best."

- Nate Weyant

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